Month: September 2017

Biryani at 4,700 meters: Khunjerab Pass

I had visited the Khunjerab Pass many years ago, in the era before the September 2001 attacks, and clearly remember that tough but awe inspiring drive on a jeep up to the highest border crossing in the world at almost 4,700 metres. On the way we had encountered European and American cyclists and learnt that […]

Gilgit’s British cemetery: a local monument to the Great Game

GILGIT: Sitting under the shade of trees, Ghulam Ali stares at the graves around him. These are, perhaps, his last days working as the caretaker of this old graveyard and although he has already retired from the job, he continues to work here as a volunteer till the government appoints his replacement. There are at […]